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Clearance Corner

You are here: Home > Yarn > Yarns by Weight
Choose a sub category:
1 - Super Fine 2 - Fine
3 - Light 4 - Medium
5 - Bulky 6 - Super Bulky
Yarns Sorted by Weight
Well, every time we think there's a correct way to sort yarns into groups that can be used one for another, we hit a snag.  The truth is that there is so much variation in yarns that it's impossible to have absolute rules on substitutions. Which is why yarn manufacturers continue to pay designers to develop patterns that call for specific yarns.  But you knew that.
What are the things that you should consider when substituting yarns?  Gauge of course, but also the fiber used, smoothness, regular or irregular spin, indoor or outdoor use, and
the draping of it (limp to stiff).  And how do you tell these things?  Sometimes it's really tough--even the color of the dye can make a difference in how a yarn works up.
We used to go strictly by names like "worsted' or "Aran" or "sport."  But those are all just words; if a manufacturer wants to call something "Sport" then that's what it's called.  Then they started putting yardage on yarn ball bands--50g = X yards.  But some fibers are a lot heavier than others, like bamboo is much more dense than cashmere.  Not only that, but fifty grams of lace yarn is a lot longer than 50 g of Bulky Lopi.
 The Craft Yarn Council of America (CYCA) developed those handy little skeins with the numbers on them, 0 through 6, but still that isn't a complete answer for yarn substitution.  There's a lot of variation among all those "4" yarns.  The plain truth is you have to look at all these things, and use the infallible computer we all have (your brain!) to figure it out.  Start with common sense--narrow things down first by general terms, then continue from there.  You'll notice that the #3,4,&5 groups are bigger, and have more variation within them, than the thinner yarns.
We're using the CYCA numbers as general divisions. We don't have 0--that's mostly very fine thread for tatting or filet crochet.  From there, here's what you can expect:
  • Group 1, Very Fine--use for delicate lace work and extra small stitchery using needles 000-1  Cobweb lace yarn would fall in this group
  • Group 2, Fine--most laceweight yarns used for light shawls fall in this group, also some finer gauge yarns including those called "fingering" or "baby" yarns. Australian/New Zealand terminology is "2 ply." 
  • Group 3, Light--This group includes most sock yarns, yarns typically called "sport" weight, 3ply Shetland and 5-ply gansey.  Can also include 4-ply baby yarns.  DK (double knitting) is a weight category a bit heavier than sport weight, but lighter than what Americans call worsted.  Australian 8ply is the same as DK
  • Group 4, Medium--These are typically what is called "worsted" but as you know there is a lot of variation in this group.   You can have yarns that measure the exact same yardage per gram, but knit differently because of their shape.  This is a very general guide for a large group of medium weight yarns.
  • Group 5, Bulky--These yarns are what most of us would consider "chunky."  They're heavier than most worsted weight yarns, but not huge.  The traditional Aran yarns used for classic fisherman's knits are in this group, as are some thick and thin, homespun style yarns that don't actually weigh a lot.  Australian/New Zealand terminology is "12ply"
  • Group 6, Super Bulky--This group can have a huge variation, because there's no upper limit to how bulky it can be.  The knitting gauge can be anywhere from 3.5 to 1 stitch per inch, and maybe even less!  Australia/New Zealand term is usually "14-ply."